Author notes: The above discussion was focused mainly on epee set-ups. For foils and schlagers, the considerations are similar, but the overall weights (such as pommels) will change. Also, for schlager, the option of open or swept hilts exists in most kingdoms. Swept hilts are very good for light set-ups, and for the balance point in front of the guard. AFS (American Fencing Supply, armory division) has an extensive catalog with drawings. As I am familiar with their products and use them often as examples, I often compare their size/weight with other SCA supplies to get a feeling for the effect on the balance.

What Do You Like?

Buying a blade and putting it together can be fun and easy. It also allows you to customize a fighting tool to your style, size, and speed. If this is your first blade, I would suggest going to SCA practices and trying out what others have. That way you can get a feel for what type of blade best suits you. If there is no practice near you, I would suggest starting out with a basic set-up (epee with bell guard and quillion) carried by most SCA suppliers. When you are trying out the blades, take note if these items:

1. Balance point: Is the balance point of the sword in front of the guard (if so, how many inches in front of the guard), or behind the guard (the weight seems to rest in your hand)?
2. Type of grip: Italian (quillions with finger guards) or plain (no quillions)? Also, finger guards and knuckle guards are optional on some quillions.
3. Length of Handle/Pommel: You should be able to tuck the pommel into your wrist. If it is too long, you won't be able to bend your wrist easily because the handle/pommel is in the way. Note: the length of the handle/pommel will depend on whether or not you have quillions.
4. Blade type: Do you like a stiffer and heftier blade, or a lighter and easy to bend blade?
5. Overall "weight" of sword: Do you like a light set-up, or a more hefty set-up? Often this is related to the balance point (light=balance in front, hefty=balance in hand).

Balance point: Historically, the balance point of rapiers was 1 to 3 inches in front of the guard. This is how I typically set up my blades. In addition, I find this balance is much better for people with weak wrists or small grips. People with large and strong grips/wrists can often use swords with the balance point in-hand or the heftier set-ups with little cost in speed and effectiveness.

Grip: This is strictly personal preference. Quillions are extremely useful, though, and I would suggest starting with them early. Length does matter: Standard handles are fine for the average or larger person. However, if you have small hands, take care to order shorter (and if possible) narrower handles, and short pommels.

Blade: Unless you live in a schlager only kingdom, the standard epee is the most common blade and very forgiving for beginners. If you already have a light touch and prefer heavier set-ups, then the musketeer blade would probably suit you better.

Weight: For light set-ups, stick to brass/aluminum, or shallow/small steel guards. If you like heft, go for the heavy weight steel.

Ordering: Now that you know what you like, how do you order it? You have two choices:

1. (Easiest) You can order a complete blade from one vendor. If you do, ask about the balance point and the overall weight. These are the main considerations to match your style. If you have small hands, be sure to ask for handle length, or use method (b). SCA suppliers will often have period basic set-ups.
2. Order parts from several vendors. You will spend more in shipping, but if you know fairly well what you want, you will probably be a lot happier with the end result. If you are really picky (like me), you order everything but the pommel, try different weights to find the correct balance point, and then order the pommel. (Hint, put the tip on when determining balance point.)

Thread: When ordering the blade and pommel, the most common thread is 6x1mm (metric). Some items still come in 1/4''-20 (English), such as schlagers and some steel pommels. Either is fine, but just make sure you order all your equipment in the same thread. (For epee equipment, 6x1 is most common.)

Blade: Basically, you get what you pay for. Cheap blades tend to last less time (a few months to a year) than the more expensive blades (6 months to a couple years). Also, quality control is sporadic, and a good blade brand a year ago may be junk today. For epees, order the practice epee (not the electric), in size 5 (35'' blade).
Examples: (all comments are my personal opinion and experience):

• Triplette's SCA Practice Epee: wider than standard epees, lasts a reasonable time for the cost. (1 to 1.5 years). Be sure to order the SCA blade.
• France-Lames (FL): If you like blades that are thin and bend really easy, get this blade. (6 months to a year) (So. California Fencers carries a FL blade that is much thicker and stiffer than I have seen from any other vendor. Lasts about the same time.)
• Holstin Plus: A specially treated FL blade. Still thin and flexible, but stiffer and lasts longer than the regular FL blade.
• Maraging blades: A little stiffer. Guaranteed to break flat. Lasts longer than regular blades.
• Russian Blades: Inexpensive. Quality control very sporadic. If it makes it past the first month, it will usually last a few months to less than a year.
• Silverstar: About the same or less quality as a FL.
• Musketeer: Much stiffer than epee blades. Quality control is non-existent. Make sure you don't get one that is too stiff. Lasts longer than epees (1+ years), and come in 40'' lengths.

Pommel: For a light set-up (or balance point in front of the guard), stick to pommels of 3 to 5oz. If you do not have quillions, you will need a little extra weight (4 to 6oz). For a heavy set-up (balance point in-hand), use 5 to 7oz. AFS and Scotty carry a good selection of pommels. Triplette has pretty brass ones, but need a little grinding to round the base.

Handle: A standard wood or leather wrapped handle is a good start. Most SCA supplies have them, and some will custom size for larger or smaller hands (i.e. Darkwood). Triplette carries an inexpensive brass wound into black polymer that looks good and lasts (for small grips and quillions, get the 4.0'').

Guard: For light set-ups (balance in front), go for a small or shallow cup guard. Brass or aluminum will keep the weight down if you use the bigger guards. (AFS Aluminum Italian/Hollywood Cups, So CA Fencers Brass Italian Cup). If you use steel, make sure it is a shallow cup and not very thick. (Check various SCA suppliers, AFS's Musketeer or Shell guards.) For heavy set-ups, use larger steel guards (such as the steel Spanish Cup) to add heft. If you want the balance point behind the guard, but not a lot of weight, go for a shallow steel cup and a slightly heavier pommel. (**note: the AFS Italian Cup has narrow slits in it, which are not allowed in some kingdoms. This is easily fixed by epoxing leather on the back.)

Quillions: Go for steel (various SCA suppliers), or the bronze-magnesium (AFS). Stay away from brass, as they break easily. Also, round bar is a lot more comfortable on the hands than square bars (the cross section of the metal rod). If you get quillions with finger guards, be sure they are large enough for your finger(s). (i.e. AFS quillions will allow one finger, but not two).

Tips: AFS sells rubber epee tips (bigger than plastic foil tip, smaller than rabbit blunts).

Thumb guards: You can use a thick piece of leather, or AFS sells a black leather thumb guard. You will want some padding. (Felt pads are cheap and available from all modern suppliers.)

Putting it Together: (If you ordered the parts separately) Most likely the tang will be too long. Put everything together except the pommel (guard, thumb pad, quillions, and handle). You should have at least 7 thread turns to screw the pommel on. If it is too long, use a hacksaw to shorten it to the right length, leaving as many threads as possible that fit into the pommel. To saw, secure the majority of the tang and part of the forte tightly in a vise, leaving as short a length as possible to do the cutting (this minimizes vibrations). If possible, use cutting fluid or WD-40 where you are sawing. I often cut 1/3 of the way at a time, allowing the tang to cool a bit in between cuttings. Use a file to smooth the sharp edges after cutting. Sometimes the hole in the guard is too small for the tang of the blade to go all the way through (the guard should rest on the front of the guard securely). Use a small file to open this up, taking care to keep the hole square-ish. If the guard rocks on the forte, use a small thin piece of leather in between to tighten this up. If the hole is too big, wrap a small amount of tape at the base of the tang to fill it in. If you get a fancy pommel, you will probably want it facing a certain way. I have found that a thin piece of leather between the pommel and handle will help adjust this.